Finishing Up

So its been months since I've last updated this blog, but I there are a few loose ends I'd just like to tie up before abandoning Kelly & Mike's Trip.  

Firstly,  we have to give props to a local artist we found in Bali and who cut us a deal on a painting.  We wanted to buy something there that we would always have, and remind us of our journey together.  One day while exploring the town center, we stumbled upon a small art gallery on East Monkey Forest Rd (very near the entrance to the Monkey Forest - duh!).  In exchange for the deal we told them we would put them on the Internet....so...here they are!  The artist is named Dodik Sarta and he and his brother paint, while Dodik's wife sells the

work in their shop.  They were lovely people and very excited that we had gotten married just hours before.  So, if you're ever in Ubud, Bali, Indonesia, be sure to patronize this great shop.

Secondly, we really need to thank Sonny in Sapa, Vietnam.  Sonny was the shop owner we purchased our warm hiking clothes from our first day in Sapa (who knew it would be so freaking cold?!)  Sonny loved Canadians, mostly because we were so "awesome", and because he had a Canadian guy help him make his store sign, so it would have proper grammar.  This guy was truly a generous soul, and could literally procure anything your heart desired.   

One evening, we ran into him around town, and he took us to his friend's house where we drank beers and sang karaoke with their family.  No one but Sonny spoke any English, but it was still one of the most memorable experiences we had the whole trip.  I'm not sure where they got their karaoke set from, but among the songs you could choose from was "O Canada"!  Of course, I had to sing that one!  

So if you're ever in Sapa, Lao Cai, Vietnam, be sure to visit our man Sonny across from the Cat Cat Hotel.  Tell him we said hello!

Honeymoon in the 'Nam

So where could possibly even be MORE romantic than Bali??? How about Vietnam?! We purchased our plane tickets there with our Aeroplan points, and got to fly business class for the first time. And it was SO worth it. It actually makes flying FUN (which might also have to do with unlimited free booze). In the airport lounge they even had a free breakfast buffet! How awesome is that? While they did have some toast and similar items, they also served Pad Thai, and Congee (rice pudding - and not the good kind). By the time we landed in Vietnam I was stuffed, and slightly hungover. Good times!

Hanoi is an absolutely beautiful city. Colonized by the French, the architecture and cuisine has a decidedly French twist. Women selling pastries and baguettes on the streets are a constant feature all over town, and ornate wrought iron and mouldings are over many of the older buildings. It was a cosmopolitan city, lots of trees, great shopping, and pretty awesome museums.
My favourite was definitely the Military History Museum. The museum featured items from their ancient past, up until the present day, obviously with an emphasis on the Vietnam War. It was quite exciting and eye-opening to hear about the war from the point of view of theNorth Vietnamese. The photos of American protests to the war featured strongly...and boosted the morale of the Vietnamese to see there was so much dischord within the American public. The outdoor display of captured and shot down American planes, choppers, and artillery was really stunning. They included stats on how many aircraft were shot down by Vietnamese soldiers, which was really shocking. The most upsetting items on display

was the clothing of killed US Airmen, as well as their ID cards and personal effects. I couldn't help but wonder if their families had any idea their son's final effects were in a display triumphant display in a Hanoi Museum. Other items included the clothing of children who had been shot and bombed by the Americans, as well as colonial French helmets, samurai swords and a variety of bicycles used in various wars. Quite fabulous overall!

Soooo....we're married!

So by the time I've gotten around to writing this, its pretty much old news. Well, 21 days old by my Facebook counter anyway. Getting married this way was definitely a good idea. So relaxed, so laid back, and so....us. I guess neither of us could imagine having a huge wedding with all the bells and whistles, and years of planning and budgeting, not to mention the insane stress-factor. This could not have been any LESS stressful. We started the day with a long hike, then just relaxed for the afternoon, got cleaned up, and got hitched! We just wanted the day to be about us, and about our love for each other, and avoid all the other drama and pitfalls that can so easily happen. So it was a pretty fabulous day. And even though it rained (HARD), it was still perfect.

Bali - Part 2 - The Resort

Since we were in Bali for a few days to get married and have a mini-honeymoon, we decided to go all out. We stayed at The Four Seasons Sayan. Located in the central part of the island, which is the cultural centre of Bali, as well as its agricultrual heartland. Mostly jungle, there are also many rice paddies surrounding the village. Its amazing. The entrance to the hotel is enough to blow your mind. To get into the main building you must cross a walkway that is placed high above a jungle valley. The views are spectacular.

The building has a very modern design which blends into the landscape. For the first two nights we stayed in a suite. Each suite has 2 levels, and 2 patios overlooking the Ayung River. The last 3 nights we had a villa with a private plunge pool overlooking the valley. It was fabulous! And peaceful...at least for the first night. Our visit happened to coincide with a local Hindu Festival. Which is cool, except it meant that from sundown to sunup, for two nights, we had to listen to the most bizzarre stuff being blasted on loudspeakers across the village. Traditional Hindu music is okay with me, but the creepy laughtracks were...creepy, and the whistling was really insane. I couldn't wait to go home and get a good night's sleep!

The most impressive thing about the hotel was the level of service. Everyone knows your name! For the first two days I was Miss O'Mara. And by 5pm the third day I was Mrs. Hurren. People we hadn't even interacted with knew us on sight! It was incredible! I even asked the manager if there was a photo of us behind the desk that the staff had to study! He laughed, and said it was Balinese culture...they are just really great with faces.

On our last day we checked out and went to the Hotel's Jimbaran location, which was conveniently closer to the airport to kill time. There we sat on the beach all day, soaked in the sun and generally relaxed. They even provide showers for us before flying out. While we loved Jimbaran, we preferred the Sayan location...it had a much more chill vibe that I loved. And the nibblies at the bar were better in Sayan!

Bali - Part 1 - The Journey

We flew to Bali on ValuAir. It was such a value that they didn't even have printers! Our boarding passes were HAND WRITTEN. That has GOT to be some kind of security violation! Our luggage tags...also hand written. Our flight cost: all in for both of us, $666.00. That has got to be unlucky.

But we arrived n Bali safe and sound a couple of hours later. And so did our bags.

It was about an hour drive to our hotel from the airport, and the infrastructure in the country is less than perfect. Tons of motorbikes, no lights, no barriers, nothing. Bare bones. We asked our driver if there are a lot of accidents, and he replies, "Oh yes, there are more people killed on the road every year than in the Bali bombings of 2002! Haha!". Uh yah. Great stat. Thanks.

We arrived at our hotel about 11 pm. It was quite dark so we couldn't see much, but we didn't fail to notice the INTENSE security to get into the resort. We were stopped, searched by a bomb dog, examined with those mirrors on a stick, and questioned. Felt quite safe. NOT!

But it was all done with the friendliest smiles and saluations, so I guess that's okay. At least they didn't check our bags. That was likely due to our innocent appearance. Being born white pays off again!

Weird Things that are Different - Part 3 - Television

I have been meaning to write about this topic for quite awhile. I find many things about watching the tube here interesting:

1. Programming
TV in our apartment is definitely slanted toward an Anglo viewer. We have History Channel, Discovery Channel, MTV and other things you would likely be familiar with. The difference is that these shows all have a distinctively Asian twist: History spends more time airing stuff on Asian historical events than European or Canadian ones. The Discovery Channel airs more shows on Travel and local flora and fauna than back home (obviously)

Also, America has imported some of its best, and some of its worst shows. CSI airs here at least twice a day for EACH spinoff show (awesome). Law & Order also airs daily (awesome-r), even Oprah is on daily, Family Guy, Seinfeld, and the Simpsons!

But there are also soooo many bad American shows that it is almost embarrassing: TNA Wresting airs ALL night EVERY Saturday, along with WWE and Smackdown - which might be the same thing...I have no idea. And ever wonder what happens to unsuccessful shows with only a season or two back home? Yep! They get picked up in Asia and shown ad nauseum. For example: Bionic Woman, Terminator: The Sarah Connors Story, Dirt, etc etc.

2. Commercials
I dont know what the laws are, but commercials here are completely different. They don't advertise products, only other TV shows. Its strange, but much preferable, in my opinion.

Also, the skip a lot of commercials. Like every other commercial during Oprah is just skipped. They fade to black and then reappear instantly. So what do they do with the leftover time since they dont take up the full hour? you might ask. Simple...show clips from other shows! Other Oprah shows, clips from a movie, or a little interview with a Hollywood Starlet.

3. Random

They play the same shows on at the same time, every night. For example, they will play the whole season of Lost in 2 weeks. Cause a new episode is aired every day. Which is great, unless you are busy one night a week..then you're totally confused! They do this with Amazing Race, Last Comic Standing and many other shows. So when they run out of new shows, they just take it off the air and replace it with something else! So you can never really bet on your fav show at all. So annoying!

4. Subtitles

If a show is in English, it is subtitled in Mandarin. After awhile you don't even notice, but I have to wonder how they can possibly read all those characters so quickly!
If a show is in Japanese or any other language, it is subtitled in English. This is because most people here also speak English.

Overall, this is far too much analysis of television, and I'm kind of embarrassed for having written this at all.

But there you have it! Everything you wanted to know about TV in Singapore!

Singapore's Top 10

I have come to notice simply by watching MTV Asia that Singaporeans have the most questionable taste in music. This does not include any reviews of the current Mandarin or Japanese hits, only the largest English-language hits, (I think we can all agree that I am not equipped to judge the likes of Jay Chou or Prince Michael!) I think you may be surprised at what made MTVs top 10 songs this week:

• "Dance Like There's No Tomorrow" Randy Jackson feat. Paula Abdul
• "No Air" Jordin Sparks feat Chris Brown
• "All Amercian Girl" Carrie Underwood
• "Like Whoa" Aly & AJ
• "Outta My Head" Ashlee Simpson
• "Hands on Me" Vanessa Carleton
• "Feels like Tonight" Daughtry
• "Slow me Down" Emmy Rossum (who I believe played Christine in the movie adaptation of the Phantom of the Opera)
• "Run the Show" Kat Deluna
• "Touch my Body" Mariah Carey

Its unfortunate that I only got around to writing this list this week...because the songs that were in the top 10 even 2 weeks ago were even worse (like that awful Colby Caillat song...you know "starts in my toes and I wrinkle my nose, and it comes and goes and I already know, and thats a good show and I like snow" song) Simple Plan and Avril Lavigne are also super popular. I am by no means a music snob...but listening to the radio in this country is like listening to nails on a chalkboard. North America is just not quite exporting their best, in my humble opinion.

Shuffle Shuffle Spin!

Every Saturday, our building is home to a bizarre and wonderful phenomenon. Weekly, from 6:30 until 9 pm, Singaporeans from all over the city state gather here to do 1 thing: line dance.
Its true! We noticed them since our arrival, however never got sneaky enough to take any pictures. But we HAD to...because the sight is just so ridiculous that you wouldn't believe me unless I had concrete proof.

Last night we got bold enough to take a few shots.

Notice the man in the white shirt and jeans... he seems to be the ringleader. Everyone pays a fee to him to dance every week, which likely goes to paying the DJ and equipment rental. And yes, there IS equipment. And lots of it!

Last night we also saw a couple in matching Stars and Stripes mustang shirts and matching hats, and matching white cowboy boots. Its a good look!

G'Day Mate!

It seems that every day here we get mistaken for Australians (or Swede's...see previous posts). Getting mistaken for an Aussie isn't really a bad thing, because I associate all good things with the nation down under...former British colony, fine weather, and good looking citizens! And being mistaken for one of them is surely much more complimentary than being taken for an American! But even after you tell them you are not from Australia, it doesn't seem to matter, so I've just been going with it.

Typical cab ride in Singapore:
Driver: "So...whey you fra la?" (Translation: Where are you from?)
Me: "Canada...Toronto"
Driver: "OOOH Canada...big place yah. Cold! Haha!"
Me: "Yah, pretty cold there this time of year"
Driver: "You know, our Prime Minister has been to Australia many times"
Me: "Oh really?"
Driver: "Yes, many, many times"
Me: "Nice"
Driver: "Yes, nice"
Me: Silence
Driver: "Australia has great golfing"
Me: "Nice"
Driver: "Yes, nice"
Me: Silence

And often by this point I have arrived at my destination and can extricate myself from the rapidly deteriorating conversation. It simply puzzles me every time it happens. I can't figure out if it is the nearest frame of reference for Caucasian habitation, or if they are unsure about Canada. Maybe it sounds like Canberra???? That thought just occurred to me...OMG. I might have just figured this mystery out!!!

Uhh....Thanks?

So today we stopped by our local grocery store to pick up a few things, and we stumbled on a giveway!!!! Not money, or coupons, but a pair of Norwegian Salmon oven mitts!!! Yessssss!

When the checkout clerk saw how delighted we were with our new oven mitts, she promptly gave us another FREE item! An insulated meat bag! Complete with instructions on how to properly store frozen meat!

Could this day GET any better???

Cool! Or...should I say HOT?

This weekend Mike was mistaken for Swedish Footballer Freddie Ljungberg. 

Wa wa we wah!  That's a pretty good compliment I'd say!

gawd Mike is gonna be soooo embarrassed when he sees this post!

Sentosa

So we finally got around to checking out Sentosa Island. Sentosa has beaches, museums, rides and an aquarium. Everyone here told us it is a must-see experience, so we had to go. It seemed as though every time we made plans to finally get there it would rain. So last weekend we finally we got a sunny Sunday to check it out. There are a few ways to get there, and of course, we chose the most interesting one...a gondola. It is insanely, insanely high up. I was quite scared. Though we did get a great view of the fat European men sunbathing in their thongs. Good times.

We purchased a package that included a 3D movie, aquarium pass, dolphin show and the gondola tickets. First stop was the aquarium, which was pretty cool actually. They have 2 tanks where you can touch the fish, starfish and rays, which were a lot harder and slimier than I had imagined. Then you get on a conveyor belt which takes you into a tube where you are surrounded by sharks, rays, and fish of all kinds. It was pretty interesting. But as soon as we exited the aquarium, instead of being greeted by the hot Singapore sun, this was what the sky looked like:
Pretty ominous eh?

Seemed like a good time to seek some

shelter and enjoy a favourite Singapore

treat: Cup O' Corn!

Next stop: Dolphin Show. It was neat that they were pink dolphins, but it was altogether kinda lame. Might have had something to do with the fact that we watched it in the pouring rain...

Next Stop: 3D log ride movie. The line ended up being really long, and so to pass the time we got some beers! Obviously! Should have had more than one, because that ride was crap.

Final Stop: Home Jeeves! Altogether Sentosa was a big expensive disappointment. I guess maybe we should have just went to the beach and the WWII bunker. Ah well...another Singapore landmark is crossed off of our list!

Earth Hour 2008

On 31 March 2007, 2.2 million people and 2100 Sydney businesses turned off their lights for one hour to inspire people to take action on climate change. You can take part in Earth Hour this Saturday, the 29^th, from 8-9 pm. Simply turn off your lights. Save energy. Together, our small actions can make a difference. Hopefully, this will inspire more people to reduce overall usage.

For more information go to http://earthhour.org

Ahhhhhhhhh

In the last 2 weeks our friendly neighbourhood Starbucks just got a lot more neighbourhoodier. This outlet just opened last week! They must have known we were coming!

Pizza - Part Deux

So in our attempt to locate the best pizza in Singapore, we came across this:  Canadian 2 for 1.

How could we NOT order from a place with a name like that???  What they don't tell you is one pizza is 34.00.  Worth every penny.

And it was pretty good actually (though Mike 

would say it was too chunky).  I thought it was so far the best pizza Ive had here.

Check it out:

 

First Family Portrait

So, I guess I've been a bit negligent in mentioning that Mikey and I are getting married! I assume if you read our blog, you probably know us well enough that this is old news. I had wanted to keep this blog to travel and travel-related observations, but I guess since we are getting married in Bali...it counts!
The process of getting our legal documentation together has been less than easy. The completely unhelpful and sometimes flat-out rude Canadian Consulate staff, the language barriers between us and our Indonesian wedding planner, and the geographical issues have made it altogether more difficult that I could imagine. Part of the process has been to supply 8 photographs of us together to send to the Indonesian government. We finally got around doing it today. Here is the result of our efforts! Our first family portrait:

The guy airbrushed it and everything! He made our teeth whiter, skin clearer, my neck thinner... Oh wait...No...Wait...I mean....we naturally look this good!!! I swear!!! But really, it makes me appreciate the magic of modern technology. Wow!

Even More Canadiana!

Though you can probably already tell, Singaporeans seem to have a real interest in Canadian political personalities. What you might not yet know, is that they also love Canadian sense of humor!!! One of the most popular shows here is Just for Laughs. Mostly the hidden camera skits, but I have also seen a few episodes of 90's standup.

Ever wondered what Singapore Airlines does when they want to entertain their guests but not give out headphones? Play Just for Laughs Gags without audio! Cause really...a person getting their tie caught in an ATM is hilarious even without sound! What makes it even better is that you can hear the other passengers laughing hysterically. I love it.

And catching glimpses of old Canadian standbys in the background like Zellers and The Bay really makes me feel a little nostalgic...

Does this strike anyone else as kinda wierd?

I arrived home from the grocery store to find this on our desk:





Now, I'm pretty sure it was not there before I had left. I'm also positive Mike would never, EVER buy me a stuffed bunny. On a second trip to the grocery store today (long story involving my attempt to cook), I found the answer. Piled on a luggage cart were half a dozen boxes marked "Easter Bunnies", containing my bunny's twin brothers and sisters. It would appear that everyone in the building received these bunnies as well. So...at this point Im just trying to understand the decision-making process. Did everyone get bunnies? Just the Westerners? Just the Christians? Cause I'm pretty sure I didn't tick any "Practicing Christian" box upon my arrival. What must the Muslim and Punjabi residents think of this gift? Its not like we received red envelopes of money at Chinese New Year, or bowls of milk at Thaipusam. I'm not complaining at all, I like my new friend. It just struck me as being really bizarre.

More Canadiana

When it seems as though the television programming here could not surprise me further, the most interesting item aired this weekend! The Tommy Douglas Story! As in, Tommy Douglas, the man who created Canada's social health care system! Hilarity!

The blurb in the guide described the movie as follows: "...his commitment to social justice, his political acumen and pugnacious charm earned Tommy Douglas both the love and respect of millions of Canadians"

How incredible. I wonder how many people were watching this on a sunny Saturday afternoon? It was even a two-parter!

A Tragedy of Epic(ally Small) Proportions

For the first time since our arrival in Singapore we ordered pizza!
Mike and I might be two of the biggest pizza monsters in existence. We know pizza. We love pizza. So it's really quite amazing that this is the first time we've had it since arriving. We ordered from a nearby Pizza Hut. We thought we would get a little slice of home by ordering the same pizza we get from our friendly neighbourhood Pizza Hut. They had combos here. A regular sized pizza, with wings and garlic bread. Oh yah. Feeds 3 people. We were going all out. We should have read the fine print.

THIS is what passes for a REGULAR pizza in Singapore:

And the wings - there were 4.

I can't tell you the shock and disappointment we felt when the delivery guy pulled this teensy box out of his insulated bag.


It did taste good, I admit. But food enough for 3? Which 3 people? Toddlers?

This is the face of ONE SAD MAN.

Huh?

As I was perusing the TV guide to develop a viewing game-plan for tonight I came across this:

The Trudeau Miniseries!!!!

Can you believe that!?? Who is going to watch that? Its not even on at a decent time. It starts at 2 am!

I intend to write a blog on the really bizzare TV stuff here, but I'm too lazy for tonight. I just had to share the fact that they are playing the Trudeau Miniseries here. In Singapore.

As in Pierre Elliott Trudeau. Former Prime Minister of Canada.

Believe it.

Some Canadian Pride

While in Cambodia we had the opportunity to visit the landmine museum. We were surprised to see that this facility was founded and funded through the efforts of the Canadian government and a Canadian NGO! How exciting!
The mission of the facility is twofold:
• To establish a land mine museum in Cambodia for the purpose of providing land mine accident prevention awareness and public education.
• To provide educational facilities, programming and rehabilitation facilities for survivors of land mine injury.

The museum taught us a lot about the history of landmines, their origin, manufacture, function, and most importantly, the debilitating damage they can do to the human body. Landmines were created to maim. The logic being that an injured soldier is a lot more taxing to a war effort than a dead one. Which, I guess is true. Unfortunately, more often than not, these mines are left in the ground long after a battle - lying in wait to injure and kill civilians, their livestock, and even endangered species.


I have to admit seeing our tax dollars at work here gave me just a little twinge of pride for our little country. It probably didn't cost a whole lot to have this modest facility, to educate the public and to help clear numerous minefields throughout the country, but this effort has made a big impact on this country and to those who have suffered injuries because of landmines. When we told locals we were from Canada, more than once they expressed their gratitude to our government for assisting in their rebuilding after years of war and conflict. That felt pretty nice.



You can get more information on this organization and how you can help here.

The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields were the place the Khmer Rouge took their prisoners to be executed, once they had finished extracting information from them. There were over 350 of these Killing Fields around the country, with more being uncovered. The government has preserved one of these fields, Choeung Ek, just outside the capitol of Phnom Penh as a memorial. Upon arriving, the location looks like a farmer’s field, nothing extraordinary. There is one “building”, a glass Buddhist stupa, which contains the skulls of approximately 8,000 victims. Some bear obvious evidence of the violence visited upon them…tool marks, holes from bamboo stakes, and massive fractures. Bullets were expensive, so as much as possible they tried to use other methods, such as hammers, spades, burying alive, or the use of a machete. For children, it was easiest to beat their heads against nearby trees. The number of skulls...piling high into the sky, each one representing a person, a life lived. It was almost too much to take. And we hadn't even seen the actual fields yet.

Walking around the site you notice dozens of sunken impressions in the ground. Each one was a mass grave. Unearthed in 1981, authorities are still unsure as to how many people met their end here. The fields have remained nearly untouched since then. Pieces of clothing and human bones quite literally litter the site, poking out of well worn paths, and accumulating in piles under trees, and bleached white by the sun. Every rainfall reveals more. The patterns on the clothing particularly struck me. I wonder if they might yet be recognized by a family member? A favourite dress, a well-worn blouse…I guess it’s possible.

All in all, visiting the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng prison was an incredibly emotional experience for both of us. I had studied the horrors of the Holocaust throughout school, and I thought I was somewhat desensitized to the horror of it all. I was so naieve. Cambodia was just so completely raw. I asked Mike how Cambodia compares to a place like Dachau, which he visited in 2002. He said there was no comparison. At concentration camp sites there are high tech museums, clean displays and modern sculptures representing rebirth and other abstract themes. Here, it is so recent, so gritty. And so completely in your face. It is difficult to say if the passing years and the continuous arrival of hordes of tourists will necessitate more protection of the site by the creation of a museum, but as it stands now, it is a fitting memorial for a simple and generous people so decimated by the ravages of extremism and civil war, and a place I will remember forever.

Tuol Sleng

Tuol Sleng was a highschool in Phnom Penh that was converted by the Khmer Rouge into a prison. Men, women and children were tortured into naming names, creating a vicious cycle of thousands of innocent people being tortured and eventually killed. When the Vietnamese captured the city in 1979, they located the prison by the smell. While people were generally not killed in the facility (unless they died during torture), the Khmer Rouge had left in such a hurry that the remaining 14 prisoners had their throats slashed, and were left to decompose. The Vietnamese took a photo of each room as they found it, and this photo is now displayed in the room, along with the articles that were present – a metal bed, gas can for urination, and box for fecal matter. Sometimes, torture tools were also present. Upstairs, makeshift cells dividing the former classrooms housed hundreds of prisoners. The cells are unchanged since liberation, and bloodstains are still present on the floors.

Like the Nazis, the Khmer Rouge documented everything. We know approximately 20,000 people were brought through this facility. Before entering, each person had a photograph taken, and in this prison-turned-museum, each photograph along with the names of the individuals and date of arrest is displayed. Rooms after room after room of these photos are on display. Women with newborn babies and young children were not excluded from the torture and eventual death. Some, including children, have their ID tags pinned directly through their skin. What upset me the most however, was the looks on the faces of these people. Some were clearly terrified, others resigned to their fate, and others still were smiling. Perhaps they had no idea what was to come? Perhaps it’s a strange reaction we all have, to smile when someone points a camera at you. I don't know. But looking into their eyes was heartbreaking. The pictures were so modern. These people were the age of my parents.

Our guide was also a victim of the regime. She told us the following story:
“I was 10 years old in 1975, and I remember everything. My father, brothers, aunts, uncles, grandparents, they all died. Boys and girls were separated. My shoulder was swollen from carrying supplies to the camps. My shoulder hurt. I wanted to tell someone, but I can’t. So I was quiet. I moved back to Phnom Penh in 1983”.

It killed me. I even get welled up thinking about it. She turned to Mike and I and asked “My English, do you understand what I’m saying?”. We could only nod.

What I felt like saying was, I can understand the words you speak, but I cannot understand all this. And I still can’t. I just can’t wrap my mind around it.

Hmmm...

Question: What is the best footwear for trekking in the jungle and climbing ancient stone steps?

Answer:

"I want to see the bas reliefs of the boobie ladies"

The first 3 days in Cambodia we spent in Siem Reap, the second largest city. This area is home to the hundreds of temples built between the 9th and 14th centuries. Wehired a guide for the day, as we did not do our research and thought we would get more out of it with some local help. For 50 USD, we hired tuk-tuk driver, Mr. Son, and a guide, Johnny to show us the sites. Johnny learned English while living in a UN camp as a child (as it turns out, most Cambodians have experienced living in a refugee camp – the lucky ones lived in ones run by the UN) Johnny was a great guide. He was very informative without being boring. He was our age, which meant we could also connect on a personal level. He told us stories about meeting his wife, his frustration at the corruption in government, as well as sharing information on the latest styles of shoes (he preferred Adidas). But I digress - We started off watching the sunrise at Angkor Wat. This involved getting up at 5:00 am (and for anyone that knows me, they also know how much of a hardship this was! And I didn’t even put on any makeup!) Angkor was a sight to behold. And it is impressive. I have only seen it in books, and in person, it blew my mind.

We also saw a number of additional temples, all unique in their own right. The Khmers were true craftsmen…the carvings were so intricate and detailed, featuring Buddah, mythological stories, folk tales, and the beautiful Apsara dancers (boobie ladies). Many of the temples were completely abandoned and only “rediscovered” in the 1800s. Some have been overtaken by large trees. I think we both enjoyed the temples further away from the tourist trap…where you could really see the them without obnoxious tourists getting in the way (of which there were many, sadly).

Some additional tidbits:

- Angkor Wat remains the largest religious structure in the world
- the temples were designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1992
- the temples are still used by the monks for prayer and ceremonies
- Entrance fee for 1 day = $20 US, 3 days $40

- this money does NOT go to preservation, but to a private company
- restoration is funded by UNESCO and 12 foreign countries, not the Cambodian government

- theft and looting of statues (or just their heads) is commonplace...items are most often purchased by Westerners through routes in Thailand

So anyway, we spent 2 days exploring these structures and it was fantastic.

And after a hard day's work we settled down for some local brew...

Cambodia

This past week Mike and I visited Cambodia. I will be writing a few entries on this, because the experience shook me to the core. First a bit about the country: Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy of 13 million people. It has an amazing history, and was the centre of the Khmer Empire, one of the most successful in the history of Asia. They had a complex and sophisticated society from approximately the 1st-14th centuries. As a tour guide explained to us, from the 14th century until the 1990s Cambodia experienced a dark and sad history.

Throughout this time, Cambodia was fought over between the Vietnamese and Thai Empires. Eventually, in the mid 1800s it was “colonized” by the French, who like any Imperialist force, exploited the country’s resources and people until 1953, when Cambodia gained independence. The country began to develop and prosper until the emergence of the Khmer Rouge, who sought to transform society back into its original “pure” agricultural state. The means to this end included emptying the cities and massacring the educated, the professionals, doctors, nurses, and even those who wore glasses. It is estimated that more than 2 million were killed from 1975-9.

Cambodia has only known peace since 1998, and even then the odd armed clash breaks out, most recently in 2000, when 60 people were killed in Phnom Penh. The landmines planted during these conflicts continue to wreak havoc, the resulting in Cambodia having the largest number of amputees per capita, with 1 in every 236 people having lost one or more limbs, not to mention those that didn’t survive. In a country where the government is corrupt and broke and social services are non-existent, NGO’s and donations from foreign countries are the only means in place to help the aged, disabled, and the orphaned in this country. It's a pretty bleak picture, but it improves every day.

All of that being said, Cambodia is a fascinating, beautiful and wonderful place, with kind and fantastic people. And to repeat an old cliché, this trip was something we will never forget.
So that is the context. The next few blogs will hopefully provide some details of the experiences we had over 5 short days in this amazing place.

Happy New Year!

Chinese New Year is the biggest holiday in the Chinese calendar, as well as the time of year that provides people with the most time off. It is traditionally a time to reunite with family, and share wishes for prosperity in the coming year. Red and gold are everywhere. On New Year's eve I went down to the park to take in the lights and fireworks. - And though the picture doesn't do it justice, it was really amazing.

A few days later I was invited to spend a traditional New Year celebration with a Chinese family here in Singapore. As it turns out, a former Laurier student and friend-of-a-friend is a native of Singapore, and upon hearing of my arrival in the country, immediately invited me over to her grandma's to celebrate the New Year! It was a really great time, and I learned a lot. The family was so kind and generous and welcoming, it was an experience I will remember forever. And the food was so good I was full for days!

Chef Kelly

So in my spare time here I decided to take a cooking class! I signed up for a Singaporean class at a well known local culinary school. The class started off with a tour of the spice garden guided by Thai Chef "A". He explained the uses for herbs and spices both in food as well as in natural remedies. Growing up in a small village in Thailand Chef A explained that the people rely on the properties of herbs and spices to both nourish and heal. One remedy I will likely not use is to place an onion on my pillow if I get a stuffy nose.

What was really interesting about the spice tour was seeing the natural environments of the common spices we use. Sure we've bought cinnamon, ginger, pepper and vanilla...but rarely do we see how these things grow and where they come from! Neat-o!

On the menu for today was a traditional Singaporean Spice Paste, Chicken Satay, Fried Beancurd Sheet Roll, Char Kway Teow (Fried Noodles in Dark Soy Sauce), Black Pepper Prawns and Palm Sugar-stuffed Glutinous Balls for dessert!

And voila!

Bumboat!

Sunday night with nothing to do....how about a bumboat ride?

These are traditional Singaporean boats, now used only to carry tourists up and down the Singapore River. It was pretty romantical, lit up with paper lanters, and the smell of gas fumes making me a little giddy (could that have had something to do with the leaking gas can under my feet??)

This was a great way to see the city, the driver pointing out various sights along the way - museums, statues, the new casino. The biggest hit among the tourists was stopping to see the Merlion fountain. It is basically a mermaid bottom and lion top, which is the national symbol of Singapore. And to further prove I'm a hit with the octogenarians - my new boyfriend let me drive the boat!